Hvar, Croatia, Then and Now

IMG_0950I first visited Hvar four years ago (that is, the town named Hvar on the island of Hvar), and it was one of those places where I was nervous to return to because I was afraid it wouldn’t be as great as I remembered.  You see, four years ago I came in April when one quickly realized it was out of season because it was raining buckets and I snagged a studio apartment for US$27 a night from a little old lady holding one of several dozen “soba rooms zimmer” signs at the bus station.  Despite this I absolutely loved the town- one of the few places I wished I wasn’t solo on that trip as I wanted to share it with someone- and knew I wanted to come back in its height to see what it was like.

Now I am pleased to report that Hvar is still utterly, wonderfully amazing and I talked Patrick’s ear off about how I have plans to return someday and rent an apartment for a month or two as a base while I write. (This is a rather elite list of places ranging from London to Bariloche, Argentina.) I think I would aim more for late May/ early June than late July like we did because it turns out a lot of other people love Hvar as much as I do, and more and more people discover it every year.  As a comparison, check out how many boats there were in the harbor in April 2009…hvarVersus how it looked in July 2013…

hvar-viewAs an aside, the 2009 picture was taken early afternoon, the below one was taken around 6pm.  Lighting does make a difference…

Needless to say, Hvar is still awesome if you visit it in peak season, but a place is certainly different when you have people crawling around it everywhere.  I imagine this will inevitably change more and more however as people increasingly visit Croatia…




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